Sunday, May 13, 2012

Don't Pay For It!






I've spent several hours today just looking around on the Internet about crochet. I learned a lot and of course it stimulated my own creativity. This post is the result of something that I found in common on many sites or blogs- paying for patterns. If it is truly your own and you want to sell it, that's OK with me. What I find absurd is making someone else's pattern yourself, taking a picture, and then selling the barely disguised pattern as your own. I found a picture on Pinterest that very closely resembles my Little Birdie (for which I gave credit to Attic24.com and Lucy as well), and it's selling for $3.50 or more.


So I'm posting again about my little embroidery floss birdie. But I'm doing just the basic circle so that even beginners can understand what they might otherwise pay for.
As is true in most art, there is math involved. (More on this later). I prefer the magic circle beginning (just google it-there are tutorials and text and pictures-about a jillion of them), but a chained beginning is just as well.

Either way you start with a circle.
Then you ch 1 if you want the first round to be single crochet or ch 2 if it will be doubles. Then you make your stitches, single or double into the circle.You do not even need a pattern. The number of stitches is how many it takes to lie flat with whatever yarn and hook you are using. If there are not enough stitches into this circle it will cup up-not lay flat. If there are too many, the edges will ruffle. Play with it until you are satisfied that it is flat. Join the last stitch to the top of the ch with a slip stitch.


Again ch 1 or 2, depending on the height of the second round. For practical purposes I'm going to say your first round was doubles and all your rounds will be double, so ch 2, Double crochet in the same stitch as the ch 2.. Now here's the math to keep your circle from cupping or ruffling. On this second row you do 2 doubles in each double of the first row. This means you are increasing in every stitch.


Join as before and start round 3. If you increased in every stitch, you would have ruffled edges, so this time the increase is in every other stitch. Row 3 would read like this; ch 2 (counts as 1 double, by the way), * 2dc in next stitch, 1dc in next*. Repeat * to* around. So you have increased in every other stitch.
Row 4, and guess what? The increase is in every 3rd st. Reads like this; ch 3, dc in next stitch, 2dc in next st, *dc in next 2 st, 2dc in next stitch*. Repeat around.
Row 5 the increase is in every 4th st. I usually "work even" on 6th row, which means no increases. Just one st in each st of previous row.


By the way, usually, unless otherwise stated, there is no turning in circle patterns. The same side faces you throughout.
Another by the way: there are a couple of ways to do without the joining which leaves no ugly demarcation lines at each join. One way is to work in a spiral, eliminating the joins, and the other is called invisible joining. Do a search on both of these to see which you prefer.


You can make any kind of flat circle this way: large or small and with whatever yarn or string or embroidery floss. . . In one of the patterns for sale they used pearle cotton, another called for fingering yarn.


For goodness sake, search the Internet for what you are interested in making. There are soooo many free patterns, try to find one that suits you. If you try and cannot find it, make sure the one you pay for is original. BEFORE you pay, if you have doubts or can't find what you want, let me know and I'll find it or create it or send you a free skien of yarn if I fail.


THAT IS MY PROMISE TO YOU !


Any questions? I will respond to any problems you may send my way very quickly.
Boo